Lighted Prism kennel is a closed kennel. Which means I will not accept visitors to see any of the animals. I will have video's or images of each animal up for sale. I will also explain their personality as well as which house holds they would do well in.
When you pick up an animal I will meet you at a destination nearby, this is to protect my family, other animals, and family nearby.
In the near future there will be videos and pictures (on this page) of my animal’s rooms and what their daily life consist of. If you have any other questions please ask and I will try my best to answer. (At the moment we are going through a small remodel, which is why no pictures yet.)
Every animal I produce and place in homes only the best of my stock with regards to health and temperament. I do not place an animal with health problems or temperament concerns.
I do keep track of my lines so I can tell if any start developing hereditary issues, that way I can address the problem. If you are following me on Facebook I will announce any issues there as well.
I do not take in outside animals. With of how many animals I have, care for and work with I will not put them in a compromised health situations, But I will have a rescue page I would be willing to post animals that need to find a home.
This does NOT count for animals produced by me. If for any reason a pet buyer needs to place one of my animals I will take it back, no questions ask, no judgment. In fact I require anyone who wants to buy one of my animals to talk with me before placing any of the animals. I do not contribute to the over population.
Lighted prism rodents growing up
One of the first things I look for in a breeding quality animal is handle-ability. Can I easily catch it, pick it up and exam it.
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Next I look at how they do with other animals of their same species. Do they start fights or roll over? Are they scared or outgoing.
Part of the reason I look for these qualities is a happy well socialized mouse is not just from exposure. It's also partly genetics. An easily stressed mouse will have easily stressed pups.
I do expose my rodents to many things, including dogs, cats, and other animals. They do get exposed to men and women as well as children.
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But I don’t start doing heavy exposure until they are about 3 weeks old when their eyes and ears are open or starting to open. Before this I only handle at cleaning time.
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The reason is, I am looking for pups who, even though they barely know me, will come up to me and investigate. I look for pups who will let me pick them up, who calm down well during holding or scruffing.
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After their eyes and ears have opened then I start the forced exposure including being handled by other people, animals, loud sounds and many other things.
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I am having a lot of success with this method. It has helped me decide who to and not to keep and as the generations progress it seems to produce calmer, more outgoing rats.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: When can I pick up my rat?
A: My rats do not go home until 8 weeks of age. This gives them ample time to learn how to be rats. It is good socializing as well as making sure they are off to a good start.
Q: Do I have to buy more than one rat?
A: I am one of the few who does not make you buy in pairs. But if you chose to only have one rat I cannot stress enough the importance of spending time with them. Even just having them on your shoulder, rats are social animals and in the absence of companionship, either human or other rats, they can become depressed.
Q: What if something happens and I cant take care of the rats anymore?
A: I will not buy them back, but I will take them back no matter the age, or condition. I always have cages set aside for things like surrenders.
Q: Will you deliver? If so how far?
A: I will deliver as far as 2 hours out of zipcode 94533. But I will charge an additional 10$ to 40$ depending on factors such as distance, gas, and traffic.
Q: What are you feeding them?
A: At the moment I feed everyone Mazuri rodent pellets. You can get them at pretty much any feed store. I also have a special mixture I give them weekly that includes noodles, beans, dried veggies, and other mix ins.
Q: What kind of bedding do you recommend?
A: I use two types of bedding. The first is actually corn cob bedding. I have found they are amazing at holding in odor as well as absorbing water and lighter than most other things.. Then in bed areas I have kaytee bedding.
Q: What kind of cage do you recommend?
A: rats need a well ventilated cage. Usually this means wire, but you can have a aquarium topper if you don’t like the look of a pure wire cage, or have a rat that likes to dig or throw bedding around . Make sure the wires do not have any loose covering, the rats will chew it off and possibly ingest it, not good for their system.
Q: Why do some of your rats look like they are loosing hair?
A: A few of the genes I work with (Bristle and Harley) have a part of the rex gene. Which means they go through a molting period.
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Q: You mention Illnesses in Dwarf rats. Can you specify more?
A: The dwarf rats have a few things health wise. Penile prolapse is one that adopters should look out for, even if you dont get a rat from me. I am currently working on these so at the moment no male rats will be adopted out until i have 3 generations worth of no problem there.
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They also have a failure to thrive as they grow. for this reason dwarf rats will not be adopted out until 12 weeks compared to the 8 weeks of normal rats.
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