Name: Bob
ID: RA 7
Color: Sable
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Siamese


Name: Lie
ID: B
Color: Agouti
Coat: Bristle
Pattern: Berkshire
Name: Petrie
ID: RA 10
Color: Black
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Berkshire Downunder

Name: Little Foot
ID: RA 9
Color: Russian Blue
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Berkshire

Name: Emenem
ID: SA16
Color: Sable
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Siamese
Fawina x Monster

Goals
Markings
Ears & Eyes
Coat Type - AFRMA Approved
Coat & Body Type - Not AFRMA Approved
AFRMA Accepted Colors
AFRMA Non - Accepted Colors
Frequently Asked Questions


Q: When can I pick up my rat?
A: My rats do not go home until 8 weeks of age. This gives them ample time to learn how to be rats. It is good socializing as well as making sure they are off to a good start.
Q: Do I have to buy more than one rat?
A: I am one of the few who does not make you buy in pairs. But if you chose to only have one rat I cannot stress enough the importance of spending time with them. Even just having them on your shoulder, rats are social animals and in the absence of companionship, either human or other rats, they can become depressed.
Q: What if something happens and I cant take care of the rats anymore?
A: I will not buy them back, but I will take them back no matter the age, or condition. I always have cages set aside for things like surrenders.
Q: Will you deliver? If so how far?
A: I will deliver as far as 2 hours out of zipcode 94533. But I will charge an additional 10$ to 40$ depending on factors such as distance, gas, and traffic.
Q: What are you feeding them?
A: At the moment I feed everyone Mazuri rodent pellets. You can get them at pretty much any feed store. I also have a special mixture I give them weekly that includes noodles, beans, dried veggies, and other mix ins.
Q: What kind of bedding do you recommend?
A: I use two types of bedding. The first is actually corn cob bedding. I have found they are amazing at holding in odor as well as absorbing water and lighter than most other things.. Then in bed areas I have kaytee bedding.
Q: What kind of cage do you recommend?
A: rats need a well ventilated cage. Usually this means wire, but you can have a aquarium topper if you don’t like the look of a pure wire cage, or have a rat that likes to dig or throw bedding around . Make sure the wires do not have any loose covering, the rats will chew it off and possibly ingest it, not good for their system.
Q: Why do some of your rats look like they are loosing hair?
A: A few of the genes I work with (Bristle and Harley) have a part of the rex gene. Which means they go through a molting period.
Q: You mention Illnesses in Dwarf rats. Can you specify more?
A: The dwarf rats have a few things health wise. Penile prolapse is one that adopters should look out for, even if you dont get a rat from me. I am currently working on these so at the moment no male rats will be adopted out until i have 3 generations worth of no problem there.
They also have a failure to thrive as they grow. for this reason dwarf rats will not be adopted out until 12 weeks compared to the 8 weeks of normal rats.

Rats - Small, Cute and some of the best pets
Lighted prism rats growing up
One of the first things I look for in a breeding quality rat is handle-ability. Can I easily catch it, pick it up and exam it.
Next I look at how they do with other rats. Do they start fights or roll over? Are they scared or outgoing.
Part of the reason I look for these qualities is a happy well socialized rat is not just from exposure. It also is partly genetics. An easily stressed rat will have easily stressed pups.
I do expose my rats to many things, including dogs, cats, and other rodents. They do get exposed to men and women as well as children.
But I don’t start doing heavy exposure until they are about 3 weeks old when their eyes and ears are open or starting to open. Before this I only handle at cleaning time.
The reason is, I am looking for pups who, even though they barely know me, will come up to me and investigate. I look for pups who will let me pick them up, who calm down well during holding or scruffing.
After their eyes and ears have opened then I start the forced exposure including being handled by other people, animals, loud sounds and many other things.
I am having a lot of success with this method. It has helped me decide who to and not to keep and as the generations progress it seems to produce calmer, more outgoing rats.

Lighted Prism's Rats -- Males
Bristles
Name: Cloud
ID: B2
Color: Sky
Coat: Bristle
Pattern: Bareback

Name: Lee
ID: B3
Color: Black
Coat: Bristle
Pattern:

Name: Rexie
ID: R1
Color: Russian Blue
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Bareback (Majorly Mismarked)

Rex
Name: Sky
ID: R2
Color: Sky Blue
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Self (Mismarked)

Name: Wine
ID: R3
Color: Champagne
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Bareback

Name: Cheese
ID: R4
Color: Russian Dove
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Berkshire

Name: Gouda
ID: R5
Color: Agouti
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Berkshire

Name: Sam
ID: S2
Color: Sable
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Siamese

STANDARD
Name: Blaze
ID: S3
Color: Mink
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Varigated
Blaze, Odd Eyes

Name: Whinna
ID: BA 9
Color: Black
Coat: Bristle
Pattern: Bareback

Borrowing
Name: Monster
ID: Bor-B12
Color: Russian Blue
Coat: Bristle
Pattern: Self

Name: Marten
ID: Bor-S28
Color: Marten
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Pointed

Name: Fawnia
ID: B12
Color: Amber
Coat: Bristle
Pattern: Self

Name: Sky Girl
ID: BA 13
Color: Sky Blue
Coat: Bristle
Pattern: Self

Bristles
Lighted Prism's Rats -- Females
Name: Ducky
ID: RA 11
Color: Black
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Self

Name: Sarah
ID: RA 12
Color: Sable
Coat: Rex
Pattern: Siamese

Rex
Name: Poppy
ID: SA 24
Color: Sable
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Siamese

Name: Bulma
ID: S 28
Color: Burmese
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Burmese

Name: Diamond
ID: S29
Color: Black
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Berkshire

Standard
Name: Jayden
ID: S30
Color: Silvered Black
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Self

Name: Tawnie
ID: S 31
Color: Fawn
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Self

Name: Purdy
ID: S 32
Color: Mink
Coat: Standard
Pattern: Self

Name: Jardine
ID:
Color:
Coat:
Pattern:
